A Train ride on the Bernina Express

Some of my favorite travel memories start with things not going according to plan — and this Bernina Express trip was one of them.

The Plan: A Dreamy Family Day Trip Through the Alps

It all started when my family was coming to visit me in northern Italy. I’d seen a few reels on Instagram of the Bernina Express, this gorgeous panoramic train winding through the Alps, and instantly knew I had to experience it. Honestly, a lot of my travel inspiration comes from Instagram — one scroll and suddenly I’m planning a full-blown trip.

At the time, we were living in Brescia, so Tirano (the starting point of the Bernina Express) was only about a two-hour drive. Perfect for a day trip. My two nieces, two cousins, and my aunt were coming, and I thought it would be the perfect mix of scenery, relaxation, and something magical for the kids.

Tickets? Booked. Seats? Reserved. Timing? Well… that’s where things got a little too Italian.

The Drive: Beauty, Chaos, and Google Maps Lies

We left early in two cars, excited and half-caffeinated. The drive itself was beautiful — winding roads, mirror-like lakes, and the foothills of the Italian Alps slowly coming into view. I’ve always loved a good road trip, and this one felt like something out of a movie.

But if you’ve ever driven in Italy, you know Google Maps has a sense of humor. What was supposed to be a two-hour drive turned into a “will we make it or not?” situation. We arrived in Tirano — a postcard-perfect town — just as the train was about to leave.

Cue the stress.

We couldn’t find parking, so I told my aunt and cousins, “Go! Get on the train! We’ll catch up!” My husband and I sprinted from the parking lot, bags in hand, just in time to watch the Bernina Express slowly pull away without us.

I remember standing there, completely deflated, thinking, I just ruined the trip.

A Missed Train

After a few deep breaths (and maybe a minor meltdown), I went to the ticket counter. The woman there smiled and said, “Don’t worry — there’s another train coming soon. It’s not the panoramic Bernina Express, but it follows the same route.”

I could’ve hugged her.

So my husband and I had about 45 minutes to spare. We wandered around the tiny train station, grabbed some snacks, and found a little café selling miniature bottles of champagne and hotdogs — because why not make the best of it? We stocked up like true road-trippers: chips, drinks, and all.

The Ride: Windows Down, Mountains Up

Our train didn’t have the panoramic glass ceilings of the Bernina Express, but honestly? I loved it even more. The windows opened — meaning we could lean out, feel the crisp alpine air, and actually take photos without a glare.

The scenery was unreal. From the moment we started, every turn revealed something new: a sparkling lake, a centuries-old stone bridge, or the towering peaks of the Dolomites. There’s a famous loop near Brusio that’s lit up at night — it’s magical even in daylight, with the train curving around like a red ribbon against the green hills.

Then came the glaciers. The higher we climbed, the more the world looked like a postcard — snow-capped peaks, turquoise streams, and tiny mountain villages that seemed frozen in time. The journey lasts about an hour and a half, but honestly, I could’ve stayed on that train forever.

Arriving in St. Moritz

When we arrived in St. Moritz, it felt like stepping into another world. You can either head up into town — where grand hotels and high-end boutiques line the streets — or take a peaceful stroll down to the lake.

We chose the lake path, where the view was so still and serene that you could see the clouds mirrored in the water. There are benches scattered along the shore, perfect for people-watching or just soaking in the view.

If you can, stay the night. St. Moritz isn’t big, but it has a quiet charm that’s worth savoring — from cozy mountain restaurants serving traditional Swiss dishes to chocolate shops that could ruin your diet in one bite.

Lessons Learned (and a Little Travel Wisdom)

Would I recommend the Bernina Express? Absolutely — even if you miss the “official” one.

If you’re planning to go:

  • Give yourself at least an extra hour to arrive — Italian timing is… flexible.
  • Don’t stress if things don’t go perfectly. Sometimes Plan B ends up being better than Plan A.
  • Bring snacks (and maybe mini champagne bottles, because why not?).

I’ve now done the Bernina route three times — in every season — and it never gets old. Whether you’re chasing fall colors, summer hikes, or snowy peaks, it’s one of those rare travel experiences that’s always worth repeating.

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